When you think of Japanese culture, you might imagine tranquil tea ceremonies, elegant kimonos, and solemn shrine rituals. However, in contrast to this quiet beauty, there is also a fierce, violent, and mysterious fire festival in Japan. This is the Kebesu Festival, which is held quietly in the mountains of the Kunisaki Peninsula in Oita Prefecture.

This festival, held every year on the night of October 14th in the grounds of Kushikusha Shrine (Iwakura Hachiman Shrine) in Kunisaki City, is truly a "strange festival among strange festivals," with neither its origins nor the identity of its main protagonist being known. The spectacular spectacle of flames and flying sparks leaves a strong impact on all who visit, completely overturning the very concept of "Japanese festivals."

In this article, we will delve into the charm of this mysterious fire festival, the ancient Japanese beliefs hidden behind it, and the unknown charms of the Kunisaki Peninsula where the festival is held, giving you a glimpse of Japan's profound culture.

The main characters of this mysterious festival: the battle between Kebesu and Touba

The Kebesu Festival takes place in the grounds of a small shrine shrouded in twilight. The main characters of the festival are the "Kebesu," who wear strange wooden masks, and the "Touba," who protect the sacred fire.

1. Unidentified monster: Kebes

At the center of the festival is Kebesu, who wears a strange wooden mask. There are various theories about his true identity as he is clad in white clothing, with some saying he is an "oni" (demon) and others saying he is a "marebitogami" (visiting god) who brings good fortune. The origin of his name is also unknown, but one theory is that it is a corruption of "Ebisu," while another says it comes from "kebisu," meaning someone who kicks fires away.

Every year, the role of Kebesu is played by an adult male chosen by drawing lots from among the parishioners (ujiko/local residents). Before the festival, the Kebesu undergo a purification ritual called "Kessai/Misogi" (purification) in which they purify themselves in the sea, are given a mask by a priest at the shrine, and have the character for "victory" written on their back with their fingers, which is said to allow the divine spirit to reside within them and make them a god themselves.

2. Touba: White clothing that protects the sacred fire

On the other hand, Kebesu's opponents are the parishioners known as Toba, dressed in white robes. Their sole mission is to protect the sacred fire (garden fire) that is lit in piles of ferns (tree branches and leaves) within the shrine grounds. The Toba are responsible for preventing this fire from being disturbed by evil forces.

3. The fierce battle of fire

The festival begins quietly, with the sounds of drums and flutes resonating throughout the area, but soon the actions of Kebesu change everything.

The possessed Kebesu suddenly breaks away from the group and tries to charge towards the blazing fire. The Touba try to stop him using the sticks they are carrying. The battle over the fire between the two is fierce, with Kebesu trying to jump into the fire many times, only for the Touba to desperately pull him back. This battle is the highlight of the festival, and the temple grounds are instantly filled with tension and excitement.

4. The Panic-Filled Climax

Kebesu, having overcome Touba's attempts to stop him, finally plunges the stick into the fire, sending sparks flying with great force, marking the climax of the festival.

The Touba attach burning bundles of ferns to the end of poles and swing them around, mercilessly showering sparks at the spectators. The spectators scream and run away, but it is believed that being showered with these sparks will grant them good health and freedom from illness for the year. The shrine grounds are transformed into a world of hellish screams and shouts as sparks rain down, and the spectacle is unparalleled among Japanese festivals.

Finally, Kebesu hits a straw bag tied to the end of a walking stick hard into the ground at three points within the shrine grounds. The state of the straw bag's burning determines the fortune of the next year's bountiful harvest, and the festival comes to an abrupt end after a sacred ritual.

Ancient Japanese beliefs and culture embodied in festivals

The Kebesu Festival is not just about thrilling the audience with its intense performances, but also reflects the deep faith and culture of Japan that has continued since ancient times.

1. The tradition of purification by fire

The use of fire in this festival is deeply connected to the ancient Japanese tradition of purification by fire. Burning fire was believed to burn away evil and to contain pure power. The act of spectators showering themselves in sparks of fire in hopes of staying healthy is a simple yet powerful expression of faith that seeks to share in this purifying power.

One theory is that the origin of the Kebesu Festival is linked to the legend of Empress Jingu illuminating a fire to purify herself before dispatching troops to Korea, or to the belief in the god of blacksmithing, who values fire, as blacksmithing (the art of forging iron) has been popular in this area since ancient times.

2. Belief in visiting gods

The "visiting gods" that Kebesu is believed to represent are extremely important in Japanese folk beliefs. They are believed to appear once a year from beyond the mountains or seas to bring good fortune to villages. The Kebesu Festival is an extremely valuable cultural heritage that conveys to the present day this ancient form of Japanese belief, in which the "gods from another world (Kebesu)" and the "people of this world (Toba)" fight over fire, and as a result, the gods' blessings (good health and abundant harvests) are bestowed upon the people. In 2000, it was registered as a Selected Intangible Folk Cultural Property of Japan.

Travel Attractions: Kunisaki Peninsula, where the Kebesu Festival is held

Visiting the Kebesu Festival is not just about seeing a strange festival, but also a journey to experience the unique culture of the Kunisaki Peninsula, known as the "home of demons and Buddhas."

1. Buddhist Culture "Rokugo Manzan"

The Kunisaki Peninsula is a region where the unique Buddhist culture of Rokugo Manzan has flourished since the Nara period. This is a region where the culture of "Shinbutsu Shugo," a fusion of Shinto and Buddhism, remains strong, and the entire mountain has been used as a place of training. Kushikura Shrine, the venue for the Kebesu Festival, is also said to have once had deep ties to Buddhism.

Before or after the festival, you can tour the temples and shrines of the Kunisaki Peninsula, visiting the historic temples nestled in the mountains surrounded by strangely shaped rocks and the stone-carved Buddha statues (magaibutsu), and feel the deep and quiet atmosphere of faith that is unique to this region.

2. Local cuisine and Japanese countryside scenery

Oita Prefecture is blessed with abundant natural resources.

• Seafood: The seafood landed at local fishing ports is delicious, including fresh Seki horse mackerel and Seki mackerel caught in the Bungo Channel.

• Mountain delicacies: The Kunisaki Peninsula is rich in agricultural products grown in its lush natural environment. As the festival is held in autumn, you can enjoy the fresh flavors of the mountains.

• Local specialities: Be sure to try Oita's famous toriten (chicken tempura) and dangojiru, a simple noodle dish made from kneaded wheat flour, at local restaurants.

Toriten Kashiwa Yoyogi Branch Toriten

https://tenposstar.com/ja/merchant/65681b39c6b1a

"What is Oita's local B-class gourmet food, "Toriten"? Introducing its characteristics and history!" Please also check this out!

https://tenposstar.com/ja/articles/r/679

The peaceful countryside scenery of Japan, with its fields and satoyama forests, contrasts sharply with the hustle and bustle of the festival, and will allow you to rediscover the charm of Japan that you cannot find in the city.

Recommended gourmet food in Oita Prefecture

Ramen Workshop Fukuya Fukuya Toyo Ramen

https://tenposstar.com/ja/merchant/65681b763eb99

Miso-no-ya Oita Mart Branch Miso Ramen

https://tenposstar.com/ja/merchant/654c5decb3117

Access to and participation in the Kebesu Festival

Unlike large festivals that have become tourist destinations, the Kebesu Festival is a traditional event that has been carefully preserved by the local people. When visiting, please be sure to respect the culture.

access

・Nearest station: Kitsuki Station on the JR Nippo Main Line, from which it takes about 1 hour and 40 minutes by car to Kushirai Shrine

・Take the bus from JR Usa Station for about 1 hour and 40 minutes and get off at the Furue bus stop. From there, it's a short walk to the venue, Kushiraisha Shrine. (Note: You will need to transfer to a bus bound for Kunisaki along the way. We recommend checking the timetable in advance.)

・Rent-a-car: Accessing the surrounding area is convenient by car. Renting a car at Oita Airport or major train stations is the most practical option.

Location of Oita Prefecture

Things to note when viewing

• Safety first: At the climax of the festival, lit ferns are swung towards the audience. It is said that being hit by sparks will bring you good health, but synthetic clothing can catch fire, so please avoid wearing them or exercise caution when watching.

• Respect local traditions: During the festival, it is important to follow the instructions of local residents and behave quietly so as not to disturb the sacred event. In particular, when taking photos or videos, please be careful not to disrupt the progress of the festival by using flash or other devices.

Conclusion

The Kebesu Festival, with its fierce battles with fire, stands out among Japan's festivals. The mysterious origins, the battle between strange gods and humans, and the purification by fire - beliefs passed down from ancient times - convey to us living in the modern era the depth of the "Japanese soul."

Experiencing this Kebesu Festival will be a journey that will allow you to discover not only the quiet beauty of Japan, but also the powerful and vital side of its culture that flows uninterruptedly behind it.Next October, we encourage you to come to the Kunisaki Peninsula in Oita Prefecture and experience the deep world of Japan illuminated by flames.